Day of the Dead in Michoacán: Pátzcuaro & Isla Janitzio 2024

Celebrating Day of the Dead in Michoacan was one of the most moving experiences we’ve had in Mexico. Read about our experience here.

Dia de los Muertos, or Day of the Dead, is one of my favorite times of the year to be in Mexico. The iconic Mexican holiday is such a vibrant and colorful celebration of death, displayed through mega altars, large parades and spiritual vigils in the cemeteries. 

Having lived in Mexico since 2021, we have celebrated Day of the Dead in various parts of the country, including Mexico City, Oaxaca and Michoacan. Each region has its distinctive traditions and rituals –  but we’ve found Michoacán’s Dia de Muertos celebrations to be the most authentic, spiritual and deeply-rooted in traditions. 

Michoacán is home to the indigenous Purépacha people who continue to practice traditions that date back to pre-Hispanic times. The Purépacha people believe that Lake Pátzcuaro is the gateway to the underworld, and thus many celebrations are centered around the lake and the surrounding towns. Here, I’m sharing details on how to plan a trip to Michoacán at Dia de los Muertos, and what events take place when in various towns around the state.

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Michoacan Day of the Dead 2024

What is Dia de los Muertos?

First of all, let’s understand the history behind Dia de los Muertos. The roots of the Day of the Dead go back some 3,000 years, to the rituals honoring the dead in pre-hispanic Mesoamerica. The Aztecs held a cyclical view of the universe, and saw death as an integral, ever-present part of life. They believed that the dead would go on a journey to Mictlán, the mythological underworld, and would thus offer food that the deceased enjoyed in life believing they would get hungry on the journey.

Over the centuries, the Mexican holiday became more intertwined with Catholic traditions and shortened from a month-long event to a celebration that’s held in Mexico on November 1 (All Saints’ Day) and November 2 (All Souls’ Day). These two nights are referred to as Animecha Kejtsïtakua (or Night of Souls) in the Purépecha language. It is a celebration and ritual dedicated to the memory of our loved ones.

The holiday was even added to UNESCO’s list of Intangible Cultural Heritage as “a defining aspect of Mexican culture.” Dia de los Muertos is a part of who the Mexicans are, and remains a part of their tradition for as long as there are Mexicans.

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Why Celebrate Dia de Muertos in Michoacán?

As the center of the Purépecha culture, Michoacán is a place where traditions run deep. The region is relatively rural and people in small towns and villages celebrate Dia de Muertos the way their ancestors did for centuries. Families erect ofrendas (altar offerings) to honor their deceased family members, with bright orange marigolds, painted skulls, flickering candles, bottles of tequila and colorful paper cutouts (read this guide to Day of the Dead symbols to learn more).

At any time of the day, you’ll find parades and marching bands blaring their trumpets and guitars all over the pueblos mágicos of Tzintzuntzan, Pátzcuaro and Santa Fé de Laguna. At night, sparkling fireworks summon bystanders to join the party. In Michoacán’s capital city of Morelia, you’ll find Catrina parades, food fairs, concerts and folkloric dances creating a festive atmosphere. 

On the night of 1 November, a candlelit procession leads from Pátzcuaro to the nearby island of Janitzio. This event, known as “Noche de Muertos,” features colorful canoes and boats adorned with candles and flowers, creating a magical sight on the lake. The island is known for its iconic tradition of creating large candlelit figures that represent various themes.

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When is Dia de los Muertos?

Day of the Dead in Michoacán is usually a week-long affair. I suggest arriving around 26 October and staying till 2 November. That way, you’ll have enough time to visit the various towns in Michoacan and join in the events.

On the 28th of October, it is believed that souls begin to return. The altars are first dedicated to those who passed away through violence or of a tragic nature. The 30th and 31st of October are dedicated to children who passed away before they could be baptized. November 1st is Día de Todos los Santos and Día de los Inocentes (innocent children). November 2nd is Día de los Muertos or all adults.

Throughout the week, there will be non-stop events happening all over Michoacán, from parades to street parties, outdoor markets, display of mega ofrendas, and food festivals. Scroll down to see the detailed schedule of events.

The main days of the festival are:

• October 31 — All Saints’ Eve; it’s traditional to visit cemeteries and family graves.  The spirits of little children, angelitos, are believed to return this first night and spend the next day with their families.
• November 1 — All Saints’ Day, celebrated again at cemeteries, parades and other festivities.  Many believe that this is the night that adult spirits return.
• November 2 — All Souls’ Day, generally a quieter day of celebrations, but again people visit cemeteries.

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Where to Celebrate Dia de los Muertos in Michoacán?

Unlike Mexico City and Oaxaca where Day of the Dead events are concentrated around the city, Michoacán’s Dia de Muertos celebrations are spread out throughout the region. Most people use the capital city, Morelia, as their base as there are plenty of Dia de Muertos activities and events held there, and it’s just a 45-minute drive to the other towns surrounding Lake Pátzcuaro.

But the heart of the Michoacan Day of the Dead celebrations lies at the lake; it’s where you’ll find more authentic and spiritual celebrations. I suggest spending 2-3 days in Morelia, and then 3-4 days in the town of Pátzcuaro. From Pátzcuaro, you can easily drive or take a taxi to the nearby towns of Santa Fé de la Laguna, Tzintzuntzan and Capula. Distances are short and you’ll rarely have to drive more than 1 hour to get from one place to another.

Many of the best hotels in Morelia and Pátzcuaro get fully well in advance. If you can’t get a room at one of the boutique, colonial-era hotels downtown, Morelia is big enough that you can find something cheap and safe just outside of the city center.

Here’s a map of the various towns worth visiting in Michoacán:

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Michoacán Day of the Dead Events

There are so many Michoacan Day of the Dead events that you’ll need to spend at least 1 week in Michoacán to experience them all. We spent 10 days in Michoacán and Guadalajara and still wished we had more time!

There are tourist booths all over town with brochures of the event schedules. Visit Michoacan also provides information on events held throughout Michoacán. Here’s the link to 2023’s events. *They have yet to publish the 2024 program. 

These are some of the best events in Michoacán based on our own experience: 

17-25 Oct 2024:  Visit the Cempasúchil Fields of Copándaro

Before the Day of the Dead celebrations officially begin, head out to the gorgeous cempasúchil (marigold) fields in Copándaro, a 35-minute drive north of Morelia. See the location on Google Maps. They get chopped off around 25 October for Dia de Muertos, so make sure to go before then.

These iconic flowers are the representation of Dia de Muertos and can be seen on every altar. Also called “flor de Muerto” (Spanish for flower of the dead), cempasúchil symbolizes the beauty and fragility of life. Prized for their bright coloring and potent fragrance, marigolds are thought to attract the souls of the dead to the ofrendas prepared for them.

The plantations accept donations if you’d to come in and walk in the fields (just be respectful). You can also see the unique cresta de gallo (crested cock’s-comb) with its red velvety flowers and edible leaves.

25 Oct – 2 Nov 2024: See the Ofrendas in Morelia 

In the week leading up to Day of the Dead in Michoacan, many town squares and museums in Morelia will have their ofrendas on display. Morelia’s historic centre, which is a UNESCO World Heritage site, will be completely decorated for Dia de los Muertos. You’ll find orange cempasúchil flowers carpeting the streets, art murals on full display, and impressive altars laid out at town squares. 

One of the best ofrendas in Morelia we saw last year was at the Michoacán Artisan Institute in the Temple of San Francisco. It is within walking distance of the Cathedral and Plaza de Armas just five blocks to the east. The Artisan Institute is full of museum-quality pieces representing the regional folk art of Michoacán.

25 Oct – 2 Nov 2024: Soak up the Atmosphere in Pátzcuaro

At the heart of the celebrations lies Pátzcuaro, the biggest community along the shores of the lake. This was once the capital of the Michoacán province and still plays an important role because of its cultural significance. Having been named a pueblo mágico (magic town), Pátzcuaro is a beautiful historical town full of white-and-ochre colonial houses and cobblestoned streets. 

The celebrations are concentrated around the main square, where an artisanal market is set up around 10 days before the Dia de Muertos holiday. The streets are narrow and parking is limited, so I suggest booking a hotel with a car park and leaving your car there while exploring the town on foot.

25 Oct – 2 Nov 2024: Take a Boat to Isla Janitizio

One of the highlights of our Dia de Muertos trip to Michoacán was visiting Isla Janitizio, the largest island in Lake Pátzcuaro. It’s a special place for the Purépacha people as it’s magically located in the middle of the lake.  As part of the Dia de Muertos celebrations, candle-lit boat processions make their way to the island and then to Janitzio’s Church and graveyard, remaining there for the night for a large festive vigil. 

To reach Janitizio, you need to take a boat from Pátzcuaro’s pier; boats run regularly from 7.30am to 6pm. The town is perched high on top of the hill,and getting there involves lots of steep steps. A 40-meter statue of José María Morelos, a great hero of Mexico’s independence, stands on the island’s highest point.

Isla Janitzio gets really crowded during Day of the Dead; expect a 2+ hour wait for a boat to get there. To avoid the crowds, we went early on 31 October, visited the cemetery and hiked up to the statue, and managed to catch a boat back to Pátzcuaro in the late afternoon. It was still a really cool experience that I highly recommend!

25 Oct – 2 Nov 2024: Join the Catrina Festival in Capula

Just a 35-minute drive west of Morelia lies the town of Capula, well known for producing the best hand-painted Catrina dolls in Michoacán. During Dia de Muertos, these gorgeous Catrina dolls are on full display at the Catrina Festival. 

The festival includes more than 60 clay artisans exhibits and a food fair where you can try different foods from Mexico. The Capula Catrina Festival begins about 10 days before the Day of the Dead holiday and ends a few days after.

25 Oct – 2 Nov 2024: Explore Santa Fe de la Laguna

From Capula, I recommend continuing to drive 30 minutes west to Santa Fe de la Laguna, a Purépecha village with cobblestone streets, whitewashed adobe brick buildings and red tile rooves. Disney fans claim that this town was the inspiration for Disney’s movie, Coco. In reality, the director Lee Unkrich actually did spent some time in Santa Fe de la Laguna while researching the movie.

The town square will have a mega altar set up, as will many restaurants and locals’ homes. It’s a surreal experience to have locals inviting you in to see their family’s altars and partake in their Dia de Muertos celebrations.

31 Oct – 2 Nov 2024 : See the Processions in Tzintzuntzan

Just 30 minutes north of Pátzcuaro, Tzintzuntzan is another pueblo mágico worth visiting for Dia de Muertos, where the Tzintzuntzan Day of the Dead traditions add to the town’s unique atmosphere. Meaning “place of the hummingbirds” in the Purépacha language, Tzintzuntzan is the old capital of the Purépecha empire that was overthrown by the Spanish in 1520. It’s home to an impressive archaeological site dedicated to the history of the original people of this area. 

In the days leading up to 1 and 2 November, the cemeteries are decorated elaborately with pictures, flowers, candles, food, and drink. A large food fair and market is set up next to the cemetery and processions are held with families dancing to music and parading photos of their deceased loved ones on the streets.

1 – 2 Nov 2024 : Take the All-Night Tour

For those who are looking to interact more with locals and talk to villagers, I highly recommend booking an overnight tour from Morelia. Tours can be booked in the Plaza de Armas next to the Cathedral. If you can handle the all-night schedule (6 p.m. to 6 a.m.) this is the best way to visit the cemeteries and visit locals’ homes on Noche de Muertos.

The tour covers a ton of history and visits four villages along the shore of Lake Patzcuaro. The tour is run by the local government and does a really good job of sharing the cultural significance of Day of the Dead to travelers from all over the world. The tour operator maintains relationships with villagers who allow you to enter their homes to view their ofrendas, (or altars to the dead) and have dinner.

1 -2 Nov 2024 : Visit Cemeteries

On the last two days of the Dia de Muertos, you’ll find the cemeteries at their most festive as families gather to celebrate the dead. They’ll often decorate the panteon (cemetery) with marigold flowers, candles, and food — sometimes they play music, enjoy food and drinks here all through the night.

The cemeteries in Pátzcuaro, Tzintzuntzan and Isla Janitizio have the biggest celebrations. It was such a surreal experience wandering the cemetery amidst the candlelight, basking in the spiritual yet lively atmosphere. Amidst the flickering candles and burning incense, families played music, ate food and drank in memory of their loved ones.

It’s important to remember that you’re at a burial site. Even though the atmosphere in the cemeteries is lively and festive, remember to be respectful. Don’t touch any of the graves or displays, and don’t sit on them.

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Michoacán Travel Guide

How to Get to Michoacán

The main airport that serves Michoacán is the Morelia International Airport (MLM), located just outside of Morelia city. The small airport serves mainly domestic destinations (Mexico City, Guadalajara, Monterrey), but also has flights from Los Angeles, Houston and Dallas.

Flights to Morelia are using higher than normal during Day of the Dead in Michoacan. Direct flights from Los Angeles to Morelia cost around US$300-400 return. You can fly cheaply from Mexico City to Morelia for $50 return(1hour). Search for flights here.

Budget travelers can also just take a bus from the Terminal de Autobuses del Sur in Mexico City to Oaxaca; it takes 6-7 hours depending on traffic. Pre-book your bus tickets here. The fastest way to get from the airport to the city is to book a transfer. In Morelia, be sure to pick up a brochure with the events schedule at a tourist booth (there will be booths all over town).

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Do You Need to Book a Day of the Dead Tour?

Michoacan Day of the Dead celebrations can be fun and lively, but also hectic and intense. If you don’t do well with crowds or you’re not a confident traveler, your best bet is to book a group tour. They will take care of the logistics and the local guide can give you a great overview of Dia de Muertos traditions.

We didn’t book a tour, and we went to all the events and cemeteries mentioned in this article ourselves. But for solo travelers who don’t speak Spanish, it might be wise (and more fun!) to join a group.

• 30 Oct – 3 Nov: If you’re looking for a unique, behind-the-scenes experience, you should book this Day of the Dead tour in Michoacan.
• 1 and 2 Nov: If you prefer a shorter tour, I suggest booking the Noche de Muertos tour from Morelia (Plaza Armas next to the Cathedral). It runs fro 6pm to 6am but you’ll get to visit four different villages and enter locals’ home to talk to them.

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Where to Stay in Michoacán for Day of the Dead

Morelia makes for a great base to explore the surrounding towns and Lake Pátzcuaro. It’s a mid-sized city with a spectacular centro histórico (historic center) – most attractions, events and the parade will be concentrated around the center. But hotels get fully booked fast so reserve early! 

Morelia – Hotel de la Soledad

This historical heritage hotel lies in the heart of the city, with beautiful stone-walled buildings housing wooden framed beds and luxurious beds. It’s an excellent base if you’re looking for both comfort and character. Book your stay here.

Pátzcuaro – Hotel Mansion Iturbe

Located on the main plaza, this 17th century hotel is one of the best hotels in town. The stunning property has dreamy bedrooms and stylish courtyards, all just walking distance from everything. There are only 12 guestrooms so you really need to book in advance. Book your stay here.

Pátzcuaro – Hacienda Ucazanaztacua

Poised by the lake, this magnificent hacienda is more romantic and dreamy than any other hotel we’ve stayed at in Mexico. While it may be a distance from the town center, it’s got glorious views of the water and a laidback atmosphere. Book your stay here.

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How to Get around Michoacán

Morelia, Pátzcuaro and Isla Janitzio will get crowded during the Day of the Dead, so expect crazy traffic in many parts of Michoacán! I recommend hiring a car as it’s the easiest way to visit several towns at one go. The towns aren’t exactly far from one another, but they’re usually accessible only by colectivos (shared taxis which don’t have fixed schedules and only leave when full) . 

We rented a car for 10 days in Michoacán, and used it to drive everywhere. An economy rental car in Michoacán costs around $100 for a whole week, which is less than $20 a day. You can rent one to pickup and drop-off at Morelia Airport.

To get to Janitizio island, you’ll need to catch a boat from Pátzcuaro’s pier. There are regular departures on the night of 1 and 2 November but it gets really crowded at night. I recommend heading there in the morning and leaving before it gets dark. You can also book a day tour to Pátzcuaro from Morelia [Read my guide to Morelia.]

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Is It Safe to Visit Michoacán for Day of the Dead?

In recent years, the state in south-western Mexico has sadly suffered several violent attacks by organized crime groups. Michoacán has recorded over 10,000 murders since 2018. The last attack happened on March 10, 2023, when gunmen from the New Generation Jalisco Cartel (CNGJ) staged a series of attacks in different towns in Michoacán, killing three people. 

It would be irresponsible of me to say Michoacán is super safe to visit; you need to understand the risks arisings from security problems and organized crime activity in Michoacán. Personally, we felt safe in Michoacán and had no security issues at all. It didn’t feel any different than being in Oaxaca or San Miguel de Allende where we currently live.

Yes it was crowded everywhere in the city throughout Day of the Dead in Michoacan; but we kept our belongings close to us, brought minimal cash with us, and had no problems. Of course, we avoided seedy areas, and we weren’t hanging out late at night or getting drunk on the streets. All in all, keep yourself updated on latest happenings and stick to the areas mentioned in this article and you should be fine.

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How to Dress for Dia de Muertos in Michoacán

Everywhere you go in Michoacán during the Day of the Dead, you’ll see people dressed like La Catrina, an iconic character made famous by artist Jose Guadalupe Posada to bring elegance and a sense of aristocracy to the celebration. These days, the classy skeleton lady has become the symbol of Dia de los Muertos.

As mentioned, Dia de los Muertos is not the Mexican Halloween — please leave your sexy nurse or superhero costumes at home! Most people wear black dresses or simple Mexican embroidered floral dresses. You can find them at the local markets for cheap. Pátzcuaro has a big artisan market in its main square every Dia de Muertos, you can find them there. I got my black off-shoulder Mexican top for just $5 and my daughter’s dress for $15.

Keep in mind that Michoacán gets chilly in the evenings at this time of the year. It will be dry, warm during the day, but the temperature drops once the sun sets. So pack jeans and a sweater or light jacket for night time. Be sure to read my guide on what to pack for Mexico for more details.

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Where to Get Face Painted in Michoacán

Many people will get their faces painted to resemble la Catrina, one of the symbols of Dia de los Muertos. I checked with many locals, and they confirmed that it’s not rude/disrespectful to wear facepainting in the cemeteries either.

There are tons of makeup artists with temporary stands everywhere in Morelia and Pátzcuaro. A face paint costs around 100 – 150 MXN ($5-7.5) and takes 10-20 minutes. They usually have a book of designs to choose from, or you can show them what you want on your phone.

To complete the look, you can also get flower crown headbands from these street vendors. Most are inexpensive, at around 100-200 MXN ($5-10).

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Dia de los Muertos Traditions 

To get you acquainted with Dia de los Muertos terminology, here’s a list of traditions that are commonly practiced during this holiday.

• Calaveras — Skulls are ubiquitous during Day of the Dead. The skulls are often drawn with a smile as to laugh at death itself. 
• La Catrina — An emblematic character that represents Dia de Muertos. She’s a classy skeletal lady created by Jose Guadalupe Posada in order to bring elegance and a sense of aristocracy to the celebration. 
• Alebrijes — Brightly colored Mexican folk art sculptures of fantastical (fantasy/mythical) creatures. In Mexico, they’re considered the creatures from the realm of the dead.
• Ofrendas — Altar offerings that every family in Mexico sets up in their home for the dead. The altar usually includes photos of deceased family members, their favorite food, candles, copal and marigold flowers.
• Sugar Skulls — The quintessential Day of the Dead treat. This water and sugar based treat represents the merging of Pre Hispanic culture with the Spanish custom of molding.
• Pan de Muertos — Another traditional Dia de Muertos treat, this is a sweetened soft bun decorated with bone-shaped phalanges pieces. The bones represent the deceased, and they’re represented in a circle to portray the circle of life.
• Cempasuchil — Iconic orange marigold flowers that adorn every altar on the Day of Dead. Their petals are laid out as walkways for the dead to find their way on earth so they may be reunited with their loved ones.
• Papel Picado — A colorful string of flags that lights up a room or a whole street. It’s made up of fine color paper cuttings, showing images associated with the Day of the Dead.

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How to Stay Connected in Michoacán

Internet in Michoacán is pretty decent, and you can get WiFi in most hotels and guesthouses. To get internet on the go, I recommend getting an eSIM before traveling. With a Mexico eSIM (digital SIM card), you can toss out your physical cards and simply activate it on your phone through an app! I have bought many eSIMs on Airalo and they have all worked perfectly. Airalo is the world’s first eSIM store. Check out Airalo’s Mexican eSIMs. 

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Final Tips for Michoacán Day of the Dead

• Book your hotels early and reserve Day of the Dead group tours in advance.
• Whether you are traveling Michoacán for a week or a year, I highly recommend getting travel insurance. You never know what will happen, plus you’ll get compensated for things like flight cancellations, delays, loss of luggage and other incidents. Read my travel insurance guide.
• Be respectful of the Michoacan Day of the Dead celebrations. This Mexican holiday celebrates the deceased with centuries-old traditions. Have fun and join in the celebrations, but don’t get drunk or high on the streets.
• Dia de Muertos is not a version of Halloween, so please do not wear sexy superhero costumes. Read this section on how to dress for Dia de Muertos.
• Tourists are welcome to visit the cemeteries during Day of the Dead, but please do not touch anything on the altars or sit on tombstones.
• Avoid taking photos of people, or ask for permission before taking. Do not use flash at night.
• Cash is king in Michoacán, so make sure to carry cash with you at all times. USD is not generally accepted, remember to change them for Mexican pesos at the airport. Only nice restaurants and hotels will accept credit cards.

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Enjoy Day of the Dead in Michoacán!

I hope this guide to the Michoacán Day of the Dead celebrations has given you a good idea of what to expect. Michoacán is definitely one of the best places to celebrate Day of the Dead and being part of the celebrations is a deeply immersive cultural experience.

Are you planning to visit Mexico for Dia de Muertos? I have also written plenty of articles on Dia de Muertos (with links below). Let me know if you have any questions in the comments field below.

For those who are planning to travel more of Mexico, check out other articles I’ve written on Mexico:

• Day of the Dead in Mexico Ultimate Guide
• Day of the Dead in Mexico City
• Oaxaca Day of the Dead Celebrations
• Day of the Dead Symbols & Traditions
• Best Places to Celebrate Day of the Dead
• Who is the Day of the Dead Catrina?
• What are Alebrijes?
• Oaxaca Road Trip: My 10-Day Oaxaca Itinerary
• 30 Cool Things to Do in Oaxaca City

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links i.e. if you book a stay through one of my links, I get a small commission at NO EXTRA COST to you. Thank you for your support!

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